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The Volvo Parts, Accessories &
Performance Specialists Since 1963

Volvo PCV Issues Explained

2020-01-14 - Megan Russell

Having PCV issues? You are not alone. 

Over the years we have heard every complaint about the Volvo PCV system in the book. So we have created upgraded kits, Volvo OE PCV kits and economy kits to help everyone with their PCV replacement. Regardless of product quality, the issues are still persistent.

So what is making these PCV systems fail?

Lets chat about that. 

Properly servicing the flame trap / crank case ventilation system generally means replacing all the system components and can be fairly costly as labor as the intake manifold must be removed. Generally speaking the flame trap system components need to be replaced about every 100K or so depending on the quality of oil used, oil change intervals and driving conditions. The plastic tubing and fittings get extremely brittle with age and also becomes restricted internally due to oil deposits and sludge forming inside the tubing. The restricted breather flow results in excessive crank case pressure, which in turn begins to force oil past seals. If left unchecked, seal failure can occur which in extreme cases could result in rapid loss of oil pressure and catastrophic engine failure.

PCV issues:

Positive crankcase ventilation or PCV.

What it is: PCV Valve, Volvo’s do not have the more common "PCV Valve" but rather a series of hoses and a PCV box. These pieces combined, do what PCV valve used to do on cars, more commonly in the 60's and 70's.

The first positive ventilation was called a road draft tube. A road draft tube simply was a tube that came off the side of the engine and faced under the car. This tube, using the vacuum created in the car, would extract gasses from the engine and simply dump them on the ground, along with some oil.  This is why when we were young; we would see that black strip down the highway, it was the gasses and the oil coming out of the PCV system.

Beginning in the 60's engineers began to use the vacuum in the intake system to draw the gasses out of the crankcase. This would create positive crankcase ventilation and re-burn these gasses, so there was less pollution. There were studiesdone at the time that showed 50% of the hydro-carbons in the air were from crankcase ventilation.

Volvo since the 60's doesn't actually use the PCV valve, but rather a oil separator box and a series of rubber hoses, that connect your intake system to your crankcase. The breather box separates the oil mist from the vapors, so you don't end up re-burning all that oil.

The PCV system suffers greatly from degradation by many factors like environment, the heat and the chemicals under the hood, and they fail frequently. This has become one of the most common maintenance issues in a modern Volvo. You are not alone.

Volvos that are driven shorter distances, that don't get as warm, do not heat cycle the oil as thoroughly. They'll develop more containments in the system, and this will ultimately fail the PCV components more frequently.

In short, there really is no mileage interval for PCV maintenance.

If you make shorter trips, you might do it more than if you take longer trips in the same vehicle. Some people can go hundreds of thousands of miles without any maintenance on their PCV system because that system is utilizing it's PCV system better with longer trips than short.

As long as your system is intact, no cracks in the hoses, nothing is plugged up, it will function just fine. But if not of your hoses break, the nylon parts, rubbers parts or box crack, you will start seeing more PCV issues.

We've reached the point where oil leakage in these Volvo's is unacceptable. Oil leakage usually means that there is a crankcase pressure developing which is a sign that you are having issues with your PCV system. Also minor cracks and failures in the PCV system hoses can cause check engine lights as the ECU tries to calibrate around the small leaks in your intake system.

Due to the hostile environment that these PCV systems operate in, lower quality products have a higher failure rate. And it is always suggested that you go with OE or the IPD Heavy Duty PCV System Kits for your Volvo.

Most home mechanics can do this job in their driveway if you have basic hand tools.

Most PCV kits come with:

  • Oil separator box
  • All breather hoses
  • All breather hose clamps
  • Intake manifold gasket
  • Fuel injector seals
  • Oil dipstick tube seal

Though it should be everything you need to replace your PCV system, as mentioned before, there might be some smaller gaskets, orings or seals that need to be replaced along the way. It is more often than not, something you only notice after taking your entire PCV system apart. It is always adventageous to check over your entire system for parts that will most likely need to be replaced when doing your Volvo's PCV system

As noted in this PCV Kit review:

"First attempt at tackling this project. No major issues; however, if this is your first time, count on extended time installing. Helps if cooling fan is removed to provide extra working room-- Patience and cussing when necessary also helps. Product and fit were perfect. There are articles and videos online for how to replace, but an IPD how-to video would be great as well. My only complaint with the kit is it should come with the fuel injector pintle caps (washers). Mine were so brittle when replacing the o-rings they broke into several pieces. Took some extra time sourcing, but found some online."

These are items that need to be checked before doing your PCV system. These pintle caps are not included in PCV kits, as they are not commonly replaced at the same time. Always check your entire system before buying your PCV kit, you never know what might need to be changed in correlation to the PCV system. 


Common issues with Volvo PCV Systems:

There are a couple of things that get overlooked in the PCV system issue. The lifespan of PCV components varies widely based on operating conditions.

Usage: The PCV system likes to be used at higher RPM for long periods of times (like a trip on the freeway). It also likes higher temperatures to help vaporize the negative contamination in the oil and burn it through the PCV. But in the other direction, a car that is used in a cooler environment and shorter distances will load up and plug/fail the system rapidly. We have an employee who completely rebuilt their PCV system in their daily commuter about every 18 months, due to the cool/damp environment and a 7 mile commute on surface streets.

Wear: The contaminants in the oil are volatized and burned up by the PCV system. But, the amount of blow-by in an engine (the primary source of contaminants) changes dramatically as the engine goes through its life cycle. So, the amount of contamination the PCV system is required to handle in a 300k engine is dramatically different from the contaminants in a 100k engine.

Final: Kind of a combination of both of the above topics. The majority of contamination and plugging in your system happens during warm-up. This is why cars that are used for short distances need so much more PCV work. So you can’t really measure life cycle of PCV components in miles, but they are really measured in key cycles (temperature cycles).


Check out our overview video of the Volvo PCV system here:


If you have any further comments, questions or concerns about the PCV System in your Volvo, please contact our customer service team at 800-444-6473 or by email at


Community Comments

Wednesday, January 29, 2020 8:29 PM - "WE"
I changed one of these systems on my 2006 XC70 once at about 115k miles. I loved that car and that engine but holy cow, what an ungodly job that was. Your write-up really understates the difficulty. Unfortunately the crankcase pressure had already compromised some of the oil seals, so I unloaded it. I love Volvos but that experience seriously caused me to question ever getting another.
Wednesday, January 29, 2020 8:41 PM - "PM"
Quick question, I ve been having intermittent CEL due to a bad PCV oil trap on a 2011 XC60 T6. I ve sourced an OEM replacement, and thought it was a quick swap, but a couple screws have poor access due to the (I think...?) turbo intake pipe being right on top of them (and up against the firewall). Haven t investigated much further yet, but does anyone have any advice to provide as to how to get this pipe out of the way? Risks, work involved... etc Thank you much for any advice! Pierre M
Wednesday, January 29, 2020 9:22 PM - "JI"
As always, an excellent article and good info to have! Jim Hagearty
Wednesday, January 29, 2020 10:16 PM - "FM"
Clean the tubes, box and other components, it isn't difficult. Although to access the box is totally a gas!
Thursday, January 30, 2020 12:36 AM - "JH"
Can confirm its a tough job. Just did it on my 04 V70R. Can confirm removal of the cooling fan helps tons for working room. So much has to come out it is a great time to service other items that may need attention. Leaky thermostat? Change it..doing so will also help get that pesky far left intake manifold bolt. Throttle body issues? Its coming off anyways. Service or change it. Bleed the clutch? In your face with no better access. Great time to clean up under there too. Replace other aging vacuum lines when in there as well. All in all I learned a lot and gained confidence in knowing my motor. Its daunting, but its super rewarding and you can do it! Take time and don't be afraid to take progress pics to remind yourself. Keep bolts in labeled cups for ease of rebuild. Once car is back together, running better than ever before....SO SATISFYING!
Thursday, January 30, 2020 1:19 AM - "JO"
06 XC70 T5 started smelling like burned synthetic oil once driving a few minutes. It also sounded unusual like a mega vacuum leak or the oil filler cap was missing. Found an oil leak at the center front of the plastic valve cover, took that off, and voila the PCV vent tube broke into many pieces right where it came out of the cover. Replaced hose and clamps, leak is gone, odor is gone.
Thursday, January 30, 2020 2:33 AM - "CS"
To the gentleman with xc60. T6 engines. Remove the engine mount next to expansion tank and lower the engine down in chassis. This will give you room to get at turbo intake pipe. Be careful with pipe. The plastic mounting tab can easily break off not needed but can open a hole in plastic tube we re its glued on. Theoriginalscion. Ase master tech. L1,L3,X1 And those with p2 chassis Volvo s. Don t forget to clean out or replace the small plastic vacuum line from intake manifold to oil trap. Best to replace with regular vacuum hose and ditch plastic tubing.
Monday, June 1, 2020 12:10 AM - "DB"
Replaced the breather box and hosing in a 1991 240 today. Torn "S" hose from flame trap to breather box was causing a stall and poor running after running the AC on a hot day in medium-slow traffic. Not really that hard but lots of sharp pointy things in the way so now my arms are all scratched up.There's also a wiring bundle that really gets in the way.
Sunday, February 28, 2021 7:45 AM - "WG"
I've checked mine many times for clogging. But why am I getting oil in the air intake breathing tube(the one from the air box)
Saturday, March 27, 2021 6:18 AM - "A"
I own a 1998 S70 non turbo with 193K miles and this past week, I serviced the PCV system. Bought the car from the grandson of the original owner and as it turns out the PCV had never been serviced as was evidenced when I changed the spark plugs; pools are oil near the spark plug wires. It is indeed a lot of work to access hoses etc and it requires finesse and patience but after I finished the 3 hour job, I noticed an immediate improvement in how the car idles..Well worth the effort if you have the skill and patience to do it. My S70 wasn't burning any oil at all in the 18,000 miles I have driven it since I bought it but I suspect that oil consumption will be even lower; currently using either Formula Shell 10w40 or classic Pennzoil yellow bottle 10w40. The S70 seems to like this weight year round..

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