Top 10 Problems with 240 Volvos
Thursday, August 27, 2009 - ipd staff
By ipd Staff
Even though the 240 has been out of production for almost 17 years, it is still a popular car among Volvo enthusiasts and a favorite among our staff. Over the past 35 years since it was introduced, we have come to know quite a bit about the iconic model. Here’s a list of some of the most common issues to look out for on the 240 if you are thinking of picking one up for a project or daily driver.
Main Fuses 1975-1993 240 Models
The main fuse box is located in the driver side kick panel and sufferes from a few design flaws. First, the fuse box is susceptible to corrosion from water that can enter the interior and drip directly onto the fuses. Second, the small contact area of the European ceramic style fuses also leads to corrosion due to electrolosis. Prevent numerous problems associated with the fuse box, by pulling all fuses and cleaning them annually.
If you encounter a intermittent or no start issue on your 240, you can often get going again by simply spinning the fuses in their holders, which reestablishes electrical contact.
Ceramic Fuse Kit for 240 and 260 Series
30-Piece Fuse Kit Contains: (15) 8-amp fuses, (10) 16-amp fuses, (5) 25-amp fuses
30 Piece fuse kit 3E1000
Heater Fan 1975-1993 240 Models
The 240 is famous for it’s powerful heater, which according to urban legend can brown a slice of toast in about 30 seconds, however the heater blower motor is buried in the deepest confines of the dash. It’s like they built the car around the heater motor! Fortunately the motors are of decent quality and if you’re lucky you’ll only have to replace it one time while you own the car. Replacing the motor can take 3-4 hours for an experienced mechanic and we’ve heard of reports of it taking all weekend from some beginner do-it yourselfers!
Heater/AC Blower Motors
200 series 1975-93 kit w/resistor & switch 1370241K
700 series 1983-87 blower motor (1) 3506325
700, 900 series 1989-95 blower motor (2) 3537854
(1) - 5 mounting screw style.
(2) - 3 mounting screw style. Not for use with automatic climate control.
OD Relay, wiring, switch and solenoid 1975-1988 240 Models
Why in the world Volvo chose to use an electronic overdrive instead of a real 5 speed manual transmission is beyond us, but they did and we have all suffered that decision! It proved to be a troublesome system over the years and here’s a few of the most common issues.
Most common problem with the overdrive is due to the shift knob accidentally being pulled off of the shift lever (while trying to engage reverse), which results in the OD button wires being disconnected from the switch. Next is failure of the OD wires just below the shifter, where they simply fail from being flexed back and forth thousands of times. The switch in the gear shift knob can also go bad and don’t forget to check the wiring where it connects to the solenoid on the driver side of the transmission as the wires often get disconnected by accident. Last on the list are the solenoid and the overdrive themselves. The overdrive works off of hydraulic pressure and as they age, they begin to lose pressure and engagement will become unreliable. Often replacing the lightweight Type F auto trans fluid used in them with a 30-50 weight will provide a few more years of service.
Overdrive Relays and Buttons for Automatic Transmissions
A. 200, 700 series 1981-84 OD relay (orange) 1307793
B. 200 series 1982-93 OD push button 1259708
B. 740, 760 series 1983-90 OD push button 1259708
C. 200, 700, 900 series 1985-95* OD relay (white) 3523804
200, 700, 900 series 1982-95 auto OD solenoid 1239928
240, 740, 940 series 1983-95 kick-down cable for AW70/71 1239932
*Fits most 700 and 900 models. Call for details.
Motor & transmission Mounts 1975-1993 240 Models
The 240 goes through engine and transmissions mounts on a regular basis! To prevent serious damage you’ll need to inspect them annually. Be prepared to replace them every 2-3 years depending on how hard you drive the car. The reason for the unusually short lifespan of these parts is due to the safety related design. The mounts are designed to allow the engine to move back and under the car, keeping it out of the passenger compartment in the event of a serious head on collision.
240 series 1975-93 A M41, M46 1221967
240 series 1975-81 A BW55 1221967
240 series 1982-93 B auto trans. 1359138
240 series 1975-81 B M45 4 spd. 1359138
240 series 1986-89 B M47 5 spd. 1359138
240 series 1975 C All Both sides 274110
240 series 1976-93 C All Left side only 274110
240 series 1976-93 D All Right side only 274111
For trans mounts for 700/900 series cars please check our website
For motor mounts for 700/900 series cars please check our website
Flame Trap System 1976-1993 240 Models
Another Volvo oddity is the use of a flame trap system where every other car manufacturer in the world uses a PCV system incorporating a PCV valve. Volvo has had problems with this system since it was introduced in 1976. Volvo's still run into the same issues on their newer models. Possibly in theory Volvos system is better, but in reality it gets overlooked and inevitably becomes clogged up and causes oil leaks and idle problems.
240 Flame Trap System Components
700 series Flame Trap System Components
900 series Flame Trap System Components
Worn Air Intake hose & Air Box thermostats 1982-1993 240 Models
240 models with Bosch LH electronic fuel injection have a large plastic accordion style intake hose that connects the air mass meter to the intake manifold. This hose rests on the inner fender, over time a hole will wear through where it touches. The problem is that you now have unfiltered and unmetered air entering the engine, which causes all sorts of erratic behavior. The car will be running lean and if you attempt to correct the mixture and get a decent idle unaware of the cause, you will introduce even more issues. Inspect the hose at every oil change and replace as necessary.
Also related to the intake system is the air box thermostat. This is a small valve located in the air box that routes hot air from the exhaust manifold to aid in cold start performance until the engine reaches normal operating temperature. It commonly fails in the open position allowing super heated air to be drawn into the engine, which reduces performance as well as dramatically shortening the life of the expensive air mass meter.
Air Intake Hose
240 series non-turbo 1983-93 1367454
Air Box Thermostat Valve
200 series non-turbo (1982-93), 700 series all (1984-92) 1266826
700 series air intake hose
900 series air intake hose
Lumbar System and Seat Grid 1975-1993 240 Models
The seats in the 240 are very comfortable when they are in good condition. 240 seats offer excellent adjustable lumbar back support. The lumbar system is very effective, but not the best design when it comes to longevity. These lumbar support systems commonly fail between 50-100,000 miles. We developed an easy to install lumbar repair kit about 15 years ago and is still one of our top sellers! The bottom seat cushion support grid is also a weak spot, causing drivers to struggle when trying to see over the steering wheel when it fails. This part was discontinued by Volvo a few years ago and we will be introducing an improved version this fall.
Lumbar Rebuild Kits
240, 260 series 9K3500
For 700/900 series lumbar kits click here
Odometer/Tripmeter Gear failure 1986-1993 240 Models
The odometer is driven off of the main speedometer drive shaft by a small plastic gear. The plastic gear eventually splits and loses it’s grip on the drive shaft resulting in erratic or complete loss of odometer & trip meter function. The repair can be done by the average do it yourselfer in an about 1-2 hours using our repair kit with instructional DVD.
Includes gear and DVD
odometer/tripmeter repair kit 240 series 1986-93 13200
Fuel injection Relay 1978-1985 240 Models
The main fuel pump relay can be troublesome causing intermittent stalls and hard starting. The most common failure is overheating of the main 12V power connection to the point that the solder joint fails. This is usually caused by a failed pre pump in the gas tank, which in turn causes the main fuel pump to be overworked and draw excessive amperage that overheats the circuit. You can confirm this failure by popping the cover off the relay and inspecting the solder joints on the circuit board.
240, 260 series B21, B21FT, B27 & B28 1978-85 fuel pump relay K-Jet only(1) 1348600
240 series B21, B23 1982-84 fuel pump relay LH-jet (2 req.) (2) 1348657
240, 740, 940 series 1985-95 fuel pump relay(3) 3523608
1 - Not for 1983-84 with LH-jet
2 - Two relays on B23 (1983-84) LH-jet, one for main system and one for fuel pump.
3 - Not for 1988 and later 760 turbos or V6 models or 1991 SE models.
Fuel System Pre Pump 1978-1993 240 Models
The pre pump is a low-pressure, high-volume pump that sits inside the gas tank and supplies fuel to the main high pressure pump under the car. When it fails, symptoms include poor idle quality, hesitation when accelerating, reduced fuel economy, loud humming noises emanating from the main pump and accelerated wear of the main pump. Faulty pre pumps can also lead to hi amperage loading of the fuel pump electrical circuit resulting in blown fuses and or failed relays as mentioned above.
200 series B20, B21, B21FT, B23, B27 1978-83 1276330
200 series B23, B230 1984-93 1389721
700 series pre pumps
900 series pre pumps
Other common issues
Heater core & heater control valves leaking into the interior
Worn out ignition switch resulting in the loss of some major electrical circuits
Failed wiring insulation on the main engine wiring harness 1982-1985
Please keep in mind these issues arise due to the fact 240 Volvos, as a whole were built very robust and probably ended up being on the road longer than Volvo ever anticipated. It's one tough car! In general these are not “defects” or poor design, just stuff to be on the lookout for if you find yourself driving one of our favorite Volvos of all time!
Thursday, August 27, 2009 - ETHAN
Volvo 240, a bulletproof tank. I had an 84 244DL, when I sold it to the neice of a friend it was running strong with original 350,000 miles. I replaced the alternator twice and the starter once. The water pump was almost as predictable as an oil change (around 15,000 miles for the water pump, 4500 miles for the oil change). You guys might want to add the water pump as a common failure for the B230.
Thursday, August 27, 2009 - TROY KIDDER
I appreciate the outstanding collective knowledge base that IPD provides. Not only have I always gotten high quality 200 series parts and customer service, but also incredible information that has been acquired by many Volvo enthusiasts over the past 30 years. Virtually every conceivable problem and problem-trend has been experienced and resolved by previous and current IPD employees and customers. That knowledge base has enabled IPD to sift and refine the various 200-series issues down to this outstanding list of the top ten 200- series problems. Well done, IPD.
Friday, August 28, 2009 - ADAM IN FOREST GROVE, OR
My '85 244 devloped an engine vibration all of a sudden that could be felt thoughout the entire vehicle. A quick call to IPD and the tech on the phone suggested motor mounts or tranny mounts. I ordered a complete set to be shipped to my PO Box. I checked the engine afterwords and sure enough one of the mounts was broken and the engine had slipped downward a good bit. The car has 285,000 miles on it and has had it's share of oil leaks. I suggest if you have a high miler check those mounts for any signs of damage and consider replacing them just to be safe. Don't wait for failure like I did.
Monday, August 31, 2009 - REX MURPHY
You have a very good list of relatively minor problems and I think I have experienced most of them having owned Volvos since 1964. One you missed is the failure of the door handle when the rivet fails. I replace the rivet with a small bolt and never have the problem again.
Saturday, September 5, 2009 - J. PACKER
Love your list of 240 "watch list" issues, but you forgot one. The throttle body cleaning. A dirty throttle body can cause poor idle, sluggish and no starting. Cleaning takes about 20 mins and can done with simple hand tools by even a novice. All you need is a wrench, carb cleaner, toothbrush and a inexpsensive gasket.
Tuesday, September 8, 2009 - ROBERT E. IN SALEM, OR
I have had 5 200 series Volvos, ranging from '81 to my current '87. I loved them all (The '87 is being sold, replaced by a '95 850). I will say that the list here, is basically giving every problem I have ever had with one. Other than these 10, I've never had an issue. Great cars, I would recommend one to just about anyone. Thanks Volvo, and Thank you IPD!
Wednesday, September 9, 2009 - CHRIS ACEVEDO
I have had 7 Volvo's (2-145's, 3-242's, 2-S60's); currently I have an 82 240 DL with 432,000 miles. It still gets 26 MPG and other than the items mentioned and normal service it has never had any other engine work. I do have an issue with a thumping noise that I've been trying to find for a couple of years and maybe I might have isolated it to the gas tank baffle. I also seem to lose vacuum when the engine is under load on hills. I'm not sure about this yet, but I can hear the flap in the air duct flutter when it happens. I also have a 2005 S60 2.5T. My experience with IPD dates back to the days when Scott actually took calls. Cameron and many others have always been reflections of his great customer support for which I am completely grateful. Thanks!
Friday, September 11, 2009 - BILL IN VIRGINIA
Add the infamous clogged AC drain/flooded passenger floor to the list.
Thursday, September 24, 2009 - DON IN UNION, OR
My wife and I own two volvos, both '84 240s, one with turbo. They have been great cars!!! The turbo does have a tendacy to overheat, at times, due to the air flow of the air conditioner getting plugged up. Have to keep those cleaned and free of debris. Also, the wires of the other car in the tailgate hinges have worn considerably and we have had to replace the wiring and the hinges. I wouldn't trade these two cars for anything, though. They are our favorite cars to drive! They will last a life time, if taken care of!!!!!
Saturday, September 26, 2009 - NEIL PARAGAS
Many years ago I worked for IPD. Fantastic company and I still purchase all my Volvo parts from them except for the parts that are only available at the dealership. Driveline bearings do tend to go out on these models and are relatively easy to fix. If not ask IPD for advice on how to solve the bearing problem. If you start to hear a thumping noise it may mean that your driveline bearing is starting to seize.
Friday, October 2, 2009 - CRAIG MANNING
About six years ago I changed my 240 over to a electric fan system. This conversion has eliminated the water pump issues that most 240's have. The vibrations of the mechanical fan on the shaft of the water pump is what causes the shaft seal to go bad. This is the most common water pump failure cause.
Friday, October 2, 2009 - BOB MCCLAREN, VIRGINIA BEACH, VA
The plastic used for interior trim pieces on the 240s is of poor quality and replacement parts (even used) are getting hard to find. Seems to me that a good quality reproduction center consoles with the separate removable storage pocket, the "B" pillar trim pieces, and perhaps strengthened map pockets (a s opposed to glue in liners for factory pockets) would be worth while additions to the very nice items IPD already carries. Most plastics can be painted so a generic white or gray color would be fine.
Wednesday, October 14, 2009 - JOE, ONTARIO, CANADA
My family is on our 3rd 240 and we love them. I wish I knew about IPD back in the day as all issues mentioned in the list are easy to understand and fix for the novice. I appreciate the advice and its a good list to check on any used 240 that someone would want to buy also.
Wednesday, October 14, 2009 - ANDREW LISENBY
One major malfunction which needs adding to the list is the complex and expensive replacement of the HVAC fan motor. The older 240 motors had a spider-like mounting bracket, along with plastic "pods" molded onto the motor mounting surface. The fun part, NOT, was using a power drill with a long extension and burr bits to grind these pods down flat so that the OE replacement motor could be mounted. All in all a no fun job!
Thursday, October 15, 2009 - ADAM IN FOREST GROVE, OR
I just got through a 2 week nightmare troubleshooting the LH fuel injection system. My '85 240 died on a hill one night. I went through all the normal replacements: in tank fuel pump, high pressure fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel pressure regulator, fuel pump relay, ignition coil, still no go. The car would start ok but would die as soon as a load was put on it. Sometimes it would rev up other times it would die when the throttle was touched. In desperation I went to the junk yard and grabbed a handfull of misc. parts. I threw two ECU's at it, no change, then I tried the mass air flow sensor. That was it, vroom and I was back on the road. The platinum wires inside the MAFS tested good, so did the idle potentiometer but apparently the cicuit card mounted on the side had a flaky circuit or two and would send bad signals to the ECU as soon as air started flowing. Cameron at IPD was very generous with his time on the phone and in person as I bugged him almost every other day ordering parts and asking tech questions. The Bentley Manual was priceless duing the troubleshooting and I now have the Volvo Troubleshooting Guide as well as the Bosch Fuel Injection book. Unfortunately the latter two didn't arrive unitl the day I found the problem. I suggest getting all three books if you do most of the maintenance on your 240 yourself.
Friday, October 16, 2009 - KEVIN
Volvos have a hot air preheat system on 240 models that routes hot air from the exhaust manifold through the intake to warm the car up more quickly (for emission purposes.) This should only happen below about 40°F. The problem is that the thermostat in the air filter housing fails and pipes hot air though the intake all the time, even in very hot weather. The aluminum body MAF sensors fail pretty frequently when abused in this way.
Tuesday, October 20, 2009 - TOM BILSKI
omg they nailed it i've fixed every single one of them on my 240 wagon!!!
Wednesday, November 11, 2009 - CAR INSURANCE GUY
Ah!!! at last I found what I was looking for. Somtimes it takes so much effort to find even tiny useful piece of information. Nice post. Thanks
Wednesday, November 25, 2009 - JOHN ESTRADA
IPD has always been great for information. I've got 2 Volvos. The '87 245 w/ 365,000 has had all the usual issues. It has always been a solid car. Our '98 V90 w/ 105,000 miles, on the other hand, has been a real PITA. There have been lots (and I mean lots) of little issues that have taken it off the road many times. However, it is also a solid vehicle and is a sweet ride when it's not causing me headaches.
Wednesday, November 25, 2009 - DAVID BROUDY
Kevin: the pre-heat setup is pretty much unnecessary. After it torched a $450 LH 3.1 (grr) AMM I pulled the airbox and wedged that flapper closed for good. I put a new pre-heat hose on to pass inspection, but it's just for show. My car runs fine in sub-40F weather and doesn't seem to take any longer to warm up. Split/rotting seat foam shoulda made the list! Hey IPD, what about the reproduction foam I've been hearing about?
Wednesday, November 25, 2009 - GERRY COMPAGNONI
I have an 88 240 wagon, the 1st Volvo I have ever owned in my 45 years of driving and 30 years as a GM engineer. Thanks for your top 10 and newsletter..GM should try this approach for its customers.
Wednesday, November 25, 2009 - ALLAN BORNESTIG
I recognize some of these problems.Keeping an 1985 245 Wagon B200K engine automatic, in a garage in Sweden to use on our visits to the old country.My neighbour charges up the battery before we get there and it usually starts on the second or third try.Carb dried out.We only go there once a year, drive the car for six weeks and then store it.Carb needs an overhaul now. Around here we, my wife drives her 1988 squarenosed 740 GLE bought new in -88 and this past April I found an 1990 16 Valve GLE with 130.000 km on it well kept, no rust, only replaced the camshaftsensor so far.All our Volvos are white code 189. Allan Bornestig North Vancouver BC Canada
Thursday, November 26, 2009 - SCOTT PRITCHARD / MAINE
My wife and I have had Volvo's for 20 years now, along with the SAME mechanic. (if he ever retires we are so screwed,don't know if we could find a clone of him!). My wife has had three 240 wagons ranging in years from an 86 to a 90 and currently a 91. She had an 89 v70 Cross Country for four years, but thought it was too expensive to repair and had several expensive repairs. She sold it and found her current 91 240 wagon and with it's five speed transmission is in heaven! I had a 91 and a 92 240 sedan and loved them both and got YEARS and MILES out of them!! I currently have a 99 S70 that was a one owner and originally from California and Had a mere 71,000 miles on it when I bought it a tear ago. I love this car also! I am so glad to have found IPD to help me with parts when I need them
Sunday, November 29, 2009 - ALEXANDER CARTER
My 240 radio/cassette player stopped working. I wanted to install a new one, maybe a CD/MP3 player, without changing the original Volvo style, any solution?
Monday, December 7, 2009 - TROY RUSSELL / NORTHERN CAL.
In august 2009 i bought a 86'240GL for my daughter for 800$,thing is it looked brand new, i thought it was a misprint, an older lady that was selling it said it would'nt stay running. i've been a mechanic for 18yrs, so i bought a tune up for it, changed a few vacumm lines , still ran like poo. checked IPD blog , was told to un plug mass air woolaa ran o.k replaced it. car has 202,500 mile's on it , my wife said that can;t be right ! now iv'e driven the car 3500 mi in 4 mo and it is the best car i have ever driven. sold is a understatment! it has a 4sp od took some getting use to but i love it . my daughter is now getting a newer volvo !!!!
Tuesday, April 6, 2010 - PRESTON CARTER
For the 240 wagons only: the wires that power the electrics in the tailgate have a tendency to break. I replaced mine with the left and right harnesses that are readily available from IPD. Rather than route them through the exterior of the car via the hinges (as built) I routed mine through the interior via holes I poked in the headliner. They're always visible but that's acceptable to me. Installation was easier than going through the hinges.
Tuesday, April 27, 2010 - DEAN
Informative but what would cause a shutdown of the car fuses? I've replaced the high preasure pump under the wheel well.. But still plauged by the shut down??
Tuesday, April 27, 2010 - KEVIN
My experience working at a Volvo independent shop was that the most common reasons for a 240 getting towed in was either the fuse box needed servicing or the fuel pump relay was failing.
Monday, September 27, 2010 - DJHOFFNAGEL@YAHOO.COM
I have a 1991 240 that has trouble starting... an after market remote start was connected ... slowly the car took longer to start. The remote was removed. Overtime cold start became increasingly difficult having to crank for several minutes. In warm weather that too has now gotten slightly more difficult. This has been slowly worsening over a 3 year period. Once the car does start it runs fine... no idle issues at all. Oddly, I went out to start it in extreme cold and expecting it not to start it started instantly... the very next time cranking away to the point it killed battery... Is it the ECU ? I have replaced many items related to this. What are the possibilities?
Tuesday, November 16, 2010 - ANTHONY LAUSER
Bought 1990 Volvo 240 DL May 2009. Had 175,000 miles on it. Now it has north of 205,000 miles. Recent problem is worn out engine mounts causing oil filter to rest against something causing urgent repair. Overall great performing car. Since purchase, replaced alternator, water pump, wires under hood replaced & cylenoid worn out.
Wednesday, November 24, 2010 - GIL
I have a problem with Warm starts on my 1984 240 Turbo Intercooled brick. It starts a little rough when cold and I have to sit on the throttle for about 5 minutes and then it's fine, but once I turn it off, it won't start back up until the engine has completely cooled. Any idea of what can be causing this? Thanks IPD.
Friday, December 10, 2010 - JENNIFER - JRYAN0301@YAHOO.COM
I have a 1984 244(?) and the heat, defrost and redefront doesn't work very well at all. Not sure if it's the thermostate. Any suggestions??? Thanks!!
Sunday, February 6, 2011 - LEE BOWMAN
Have an 1987 240 that died in my garage. Coil generates spark through distributor and plugs. No fuel to injector rail, however. Switched ECU and fuel pump solenoid. When I switch on the ignition, neither fuel pump operates (I can hear them work when 12 vdc is applied independetly). Should fuel pump solenoid 'click' when ignition is cut on? Pin 30 (big red wire ) gets 12 vdc but jumping 30 and 87/2 does not fire up the fuel pumps. Again, all spark here and no fuel. Help!!
Monday, March 14, 2011 - CHEERYWHITEBOY
I have a 1975 245DL B20 with only 220,000m.I have delt with pour fuel problem and starting problems.Can of eather helped I beleave the flame guard and oil fill hose to intake corect. I beleave the EGR valve and wax thermistat are not their when i got the car. I have the cold start injector and proper gas and return lines and auxiliary air valve and system. What i cant figur out how the butterfly arm rases to increase preasur to the fuel distibutor. Does it get vacuum throw the solenoid valve and vacuum amplifierHOW DO YOU GET A GOOD DIAGRAM
Tuesday, March 15, 2011 - PHOENIXVOLVO240
I have a 1988 Volvo 240 DL wagon 5-speed with over 300,000 miles. The OD stopped at 285, 000. I love this wagon and thanks for the tips on the hot air, think I will fix that, so its always Phoenix air, which is never below forty degrees. I have had the usual things and maybe all top ten, but have found many parts in the local salvage yards and the choices are many for this vehicle. They keep coming, really. Thanks.
Monday, March 21, 2011 - DEAN
My Volvo 240 runs fine then cuts out after a an few minutes of driving and dies, will restart but only for a while before it does it again I have checked fuses fuel pump has been replaced will start quickly,but i I need more information I have checked the troubleshoot, all clear 111. starts fine when cold have cleaned the throtle body, and checked hoses.. and have replaced map sensor...Help
Wednesday, May 18, 2011 - ANONYMOUS
I have a 1984 volvo with a 4 speed which the car was gave to me.been in a garage since 1996. both fuels pumps where stuck .I clean the tank and replace the one in the tank.I have to jump the fuel pump relay for the pumps to work. I have no current on fuse 4 and 5. I change the pump relay and still no go.the car did start by jumping the relay,I guess also this hotwire the injectors to. I ran the car a fews days around till I started look in this prolbem.the car started lossing power and then would nt start.the tank fuel loss pressure so we replace it with higher quaity one. still no run pressure is max head abouth 90 psi.this car had few other problems found with the wires between the head and intake where someone try to fix without moving the intake. so I REMOVE THE INTAKE and spice wires back like they were.still no go I HAVE A 1884 VOLVO MANUAL which help some if you can help I like for you to email me or call me. 252-515-4832 or huckleberrypond hotmail.com thanks kim salter
Thursday, September 22, 2011 - DEREK CHAPMAN
I am so glad to have found this site/forum. I just purchased a 1990 240 with 230k on it. Runs like a champ and has no rust. I am looking forward to learning more and have already started doing some "tinkering" on it.
Friday, September 13, 2013 - DAVID WILLIAMS
1986 Volvo Brick. Ran great for about 100 miles on cleaned injectors and new fuel pumps, used air valve. Was cutting out from time to time and then starting sometimes soon sometimes in a few minutes. Would not start at home. Put new ECU, New Coil, New fuel pumps, several new Fuel pump relays, cleaned fuses several times, 2 re-conditioned cordone hall effect distributers, new plugs, plug wires rotor and distributer cap, new maf new ignition computer, new airfilter, new battery, cleaned all grounds and tested for power. Started for a few days but it is colder today and started only once then stopped after a few seconds. Ignition switch is powering coil when it stops. Seems pumps and injectors turn off, New idle air valve today and coolant temp sensor and still did not start. Once started and warmed up runs near perfectly. Remove wiring from ECU out to coil and ignition controller and repaired a few bare and weak connections and one shorted wire that seemed to clear up all but the not start in mornings. Guess I'll remove all the connectors again and see if soddering them helps. Have two older MAFS but new one works fine when running. Baffling
Tuesday, March 4, 2014 - DAVID E PARRY
great article. have owned 4 240s since first 1986. inc 2 new 89 @ 93 accumulated in excess of 1 million miles now and have experienced all of the listed problems, but I will add that suspension bushings become troublesome after 200 thousand miles but excluding labor are inexpensive to repair. Nokian tires are essential for stress free winter driving so spare set of wheels is a must. Expect to have vintage plates soon on my current two 240s but also run WRX which is not stress free because of its speed
Saturday, August 30, 2014 - JOHN DAVID SMITH
We have a 1991 240 automatic and have a issue I have not been able to solve. any time the a/c is on and we are in stop and go traffic or pulling a hill the temp gauge starts climbing, has not ever reached the red, replaced water pump, all the heater and water hoses, t-stat, insured the electric fan in front of the radiator works, still did it. what should I check next?
Saturday, September 13, 2014 - WESLEY D BROWN
John DVid you mentioned everything but the main fan clutch! The front fan is for the AC condenser it won't cool the car at all. If you still have the pully driven fan the clutch will wear over time and not operate as it should. Other issues I have had is a build up of sludge on the bottom of the radiator restricting it while at idle.
Tuesday, March 10, 2015 - DAVID BRETTHAUER
I have been using iPD's parts and expertise since 2006. I love all things Volvo and have had 8 Volvos of my own over the years. Half have been Wagons. My current 1993 Volvo 245 Automatic is sweet. Odometer stopped at 246,182. I estimate 300,000 miles. Its probably the least expensive Volvo to maintain and drive. And it has the undisputed reputation as the Best Volvo ever made. Thanks iPD!!!
Tuesday, October 20, 2015 - JOHN P. COSSICK
I have a 1989 240 DL wagon which exhibitds the following problems: When the key is turned to ON, only the yellow overdrive arrow light comes on. Pushing the OD button on the automatic transmission does cycle the light on and off. None of the normal engine oil, battery, or other lights come on. The bulbs check good with an ohmmeter. The car will start and run, but none of the gages register (speedo, fuel, temp, etc.); but the alternator does NOT put out any charge. I had the alternator tested at a local NAPA auto parts store; they advised replacement- which I did. It made NO DIFFERENCE. After driving it for approx. 15-20 minutes, the red BATT light comes on- and weakly flashes. Coincident with that, the speedo, fuel, and temp gages show some readout- but not a correct indication. What the hell is going on here? John - Montrose, Colorado
Thursday, June 16, 2016 - ANTHONY R. CANGELOSI
For the winter warriors, the transmission lines are close to the exhaust and corrode through due to hot salt& water spray. Had 2-240s that did this. So pay attention to trans fluid leaks in this area. Biggest change in starting and idle problems for me was the fuel pressure regulator diaphragm leak on my 92 240 wagon also had prior air leaks due to rusting fuel sender on tank. Tony Cangelosi
Tuesday, March 21, 2017 - DAVID WILLIAMS
Odd indeed, repaired wiring harness and customized ignition controller plug. New computer, ignition controller, newer after market distributor, relays, pumps OK new replaced etc. Ran OK but stopped erratically. Replaced with another distributor ( wound up with a few some newer aftermarket) ran OK, then when cold would not start. Tried another distibutor, ran good cold erratic missing when hot. Put the cold start problem one on and carried a heat gun and generator. If it set too long and got cold, I put my hand on the distrib cap and heated it with the gun so it would not get too hot. It would then start and run normal, only if cold had to warm up the distributor. Finally got a new after market one and cleared it up entirely. Hall effect? No sparks and things turn off so it may seem like fuel pumps, relays etc but was something in those distributors. No problems since got around 450 thousand on that engine still good compression and uses very little oil.