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The Passing Lane Newsletter - May 2011

Page 4: Tech Tips and Sway Bars, Endlinks

Orders placed through our website will automatically receive any discount pricing associated with this promotion.
If you call to place your order, please be sure to mention media code "MS" to ensure that the correct sales pricing is applied to your phone order.

Sale pricing valid from Thursday, June 02, 2011 through Friday, July 15, 2011

Tech Tip: Wheel Bearing or CV joint noise, 1993-2000 front wheel drive models

A noise from the drivetrain in a front wheel drive car can be difficult to locate. CV joints and wheel bearings may cause similar noises. It is easy though to isolate them so you can hear the difference. Remember a torn CV boot will cause a CV joint to be contaminated and then be quickly ruined

1.The Outer CV Joint: Road test the car, and listen for a metallic click noise from the front as the car is driven slowly in a tight circle with the steering full lock. A click noise indicates a worn outer CV joint.

2. The Inner CV Joint: If a test drive at normal driving speed causes a vibration upon acceleration that is felt through the car, the inner CV may be worn.

3. The Wheel Bearing: Road test the car and listen for a groan from the front bearings. The noise will increase in a turn when the worn bearing reaches its maximum load. If the right bearing is bad it will howl in a left-hand turn. OR

Tech Tip: CV Spline Noise

Noise coming from the front end, specifically near the rotating mass, can be tricky to diagnose. Many times a noise heard ‘here’ is emitting from ‘over there’. One source of noise that can easily be overlooked is from CV shaft spline movement inside the wheel bearing. As the wheel bearing accepts the shaft splines and the outer nut is tightened down, any movement in the joint should be minimal. A squeaking noise can still come from this joint during specific conditions. To eliminate the noise, disassemble the front cv shaft from the hub, clean and coat the shaft splines with a moderate amount of the factory recommended chemical thread locker or aftermarket equivalent. Once reassembled, torque the axle nut to factory spec. Let the chemical setup for an hour before driving for best results.

TECH TIP: Steering Rack Boot Inspection

So you’re under the car changing the oil and you happen to look at the steering rack. Not good — it has oil drips on both boots. You check the power steering fluid and, sure enough, it’s down a little bit. So you top off the fluid and replace the rack boots, right? Nope! Wrong!

The accordion-shaped boots on each end of the rack are there to keep out rocks and dirt. They do not, however, seal the power steering fluid in the rack. The rack operates something like a hydraulic piston. When you turn the steering wheel, fluid is pushed under pressure to help you move the wheels. The rack has two high-pressure seals in it. One is set for the right side, and another is set for the left. Oil should never leak past these seals; if it does it means the seals are worn out and the rack should be rebuilt or replaced.

In many cases, the reason the seals wear is because the boots have become torn. The surfaces inside are very highly machined and do not tolerate dirt and grime well. If you see that the boots are ripped, replace them right away, as any dirt inside will shorten rack life.

ipd Anti-Sway Bars

- The Best Upgrade You’ll Ever Make.

If you really enjoy driving your Volvo, but occasionally find yourself wishing it handled a little better, you should seriously consider having an ipd safety anti sway bar system installed. Our sway bar kits have been the number one top selling suspension upgrade for Volvos for over 25 years and if you spend a few minutes on the web you’ll see why. Volvo owners around the world consistently give ipd swaybar kits excellent reviews for enhanced performance and safety. Flatter cornering, quicker response to steering input, increased margin of safety and a much more comfortable ride for you and your passengers due to reduced body roll.

6K5036 Reviewed by Kevin Woolliams from Surrey, BC "An upgrade that I should have done sooner. My V70 T5 feels smoother, safer, more stable and is definately more fun with these bars. Installed with HD endlinks, so some of the credit may go to them, but overall the combination of HD endlinks and anti-sway bars was well worth it."

6K5036 Reviewed by Gary Smith from Edmond, Oklahoma "Thanks IPD. After speaking with Chris for a while on the phone answering all my specific questions about upgrading my 2001 S60 with IPD's Anti-Sway Bars, I was convinced. I also added the HD link rods. Wow!! What a difference. I'm ready to take this to the track. Corners taken at 20-25 mph can now be taken at 40+ mph. By far the most bang for the buck I've ever got from a suspension upgrade. I love the ride so much, I'm negotiating to buy a 2004 S60R AWD 6 speed to add to my fun. IPD customer for life."

850, 70 series (FWD) - 1993-2000 - 25mm front, 22mm rear
BAD PART NUMBER
C70 - 1998-2005 - 25mm front, 22mm rear
BAD PART NUMBER
70 series AWD including XC & R - 1998-2000 - 25mm front, 22mm rear
BAD PART NUMBER
V70 (except AWD) - 2001-2007 - 25mm front, 22mm rear
BAD PART NUMBER
S60 (except AWD) - 2001-2010 - 25mm front, 22mm rear
BAD PART NUMBER
V70 AWD - 2001-2007 - 25mm front, 22mm rear(1)
BAD PART NUMBER
S60 AWD - 2001-2010 - 25mm front, 22mm rear(1)
BAD PART NUMBER
S60R (neutral balance kit) - 2004-2007 - 25mm rear
BAD PART NUMBER
S60R (track spec. w/ slight oversteer) - 2004-2007 - 25mm front, 25mm rear
BAD PART NUMBER
V70R (track spec. w/ slight oversteer) - 2004-2007 - 25mm front, 28mm rear
BAD PART NUMBER
S40, V50 - 2004.5-2010 - 22mm rear bar
BAD PART NUMBER
C30 - 2007-2010 - 22mm rear bar
BAD PART NUMBER
C70 - 2006-2010 - 22mm rear bar
BAD PART NUMBER
S80 (except AWD) - 1999-2006 - 25mm front, 22mm rear
BAD PART NUMBER
XC90 2.5T, V6, V8 - 2003-2008 - 25mm front, 28mm rear
BAD PART NUMBER
(1) Not for “R” models.NOTE: Upgrading the anti-sway bars on these models is a skill level 3 procedure. We generally recommend professional installation as it is necessary to lower the engine sub-frame and a vehicle lift makes the job easier than doing it on jack stands. Although the experienced do-it-yourselfer can accomplish the install, you should consult the installation instructions before attempting this job to be certain it is within your mechanical abilities.

ipd Heavy Duty Endlinks

ipd’s heavy duty endlinks have been manufactured with long life and consistent performance in mind. With a polished ball socket and 20% larger shaft diameter (stock is 10mm, ours is 12mm) these units have outperformed the factory endlinks hands down. ipd has a 1 year warranty on our endlinks so whether you are looking for a long life alternative or a superior performance unit for the track, you can get both with a guarantee backed by the Volvo performance leader.

1 YEAR WARRANTY

ipd’s heavy duty endlinks have been manufactured with long life and consistent performance in mind. With a polished ball socket and increased shaft diameter these units have outperformed the factory endlinks hands down. Whether you are looking for a long life alternative or a superior performance unit for the track, you can get both with a guarantee backed by the Volvo performance leader.

S80, V70 (including XC & R), S60 (including R), XC90 - 2001-2007 - Rear HD endlink
BAD PART NUMBER
850, 70 series* - 1993-2000 - Front HD endlink
BAD PART NUMBER
S40, V50, C30 - 2004.5-2007 - Front HD endlink
BAD PART NUMBER
C70 - 2006-2007 - Front HD endlink
BAD PART NUMBER
S80, V70, S60, XC90 - 2001-2007 - Front HD endlink
BAD PART NUMBER
*Fits C70 through 2004

Sale pricing valid from Thursday, June 02, 2011 through Friday, July 15, 2011

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