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December 2008 Newsletter for RWD Models

Page 5: Heater hoses, clamps, Heater control valves, Check valve, Radiators, Hoses

Orders placed through our website will automatically receive any discount pricing associated with this promotion.
If you call to place your order, please be sure to mention media code "MF" to ensure that the correct sales pricing is applied to your phone order.

Sale pricing valid from Monday, December 08, 2008 through Friday, January 23, 2009

Cooling System Maintenance


By: ipd staff

In the middle of winter keeping your car cool would seem to be the least of your worries. But engines can overheat even in very cold conditions. The other important factor is keeping yourself warm and the windows properly defrosted for safe driving. Good cooling system maintenance will take care of both you and your engine.

The thermostat is the place to start. Its job is to get the engine up to temperature as fast as possible. It’s good for your engine and it’s also good for your cold feet. Replacing the thermostat is easy on most models and the engine and your toes will thank you. Replacing the thermostat requires draining the coolant and it’s a good time to think about some related maintenance. Take a look at the radiator and heater hoses. If they seem at all brittle or you can see surface cracks, they may need replacing. If you can’t remember the last time you changed them, it’s probably time. Look at the hose connections on the radiator. On the plastic tank models these connections can become brittle and break off. If this happens, even on the coldest day, you’re stranded. Water pump leaking? Look for a trail of dried coolant leading down from the water pump. Antifreeze is usually a bright red or green color.

If you have the coolant removed from the engine it might be a good time to replace it. In most cases the suggested change interval is two years. Remember coolant does a lot more than protect the cooling system from freezing. Antifreeze (coolant) contains anti corrosive components that deplete with age. This can cause big problems on any engine that has a lot of aluminum components (all Volvos). The correct coolant to water ratio for most brands is 50/50. Half of each. Don’t think that adding less water will protect to a lower temperature, it usually doesn’t protect as well. Look in your owner’s manual under “capacities” to see how much your system holds. To properly dispose of the old coolant, check with a local shop or auto parts store. In most cases they will accept small quantities at no charge.

Fan belts are another good thing to look at. They have a bad habit of breaking at start up on the coldest day of the year. Look for small cracks on the surface of the belt that touches the pulleys. If you see a lot chances are it’s time for replacement.

IPD also carries a great collection of parts for your heater. From blower motors to heater cores, fan switches chances are we have it. If the heater blower motor on your 240 is squealing, it may not last too much longer. We have complete kits that contain detailed instructions, so maybe you can do it yourself. Take care of your cooling system and it will take care of you.

Heating System Components


Now is the time to repair leaky heater cores, non-adjustable heater control valves, and dead or dying blower fans. We also have stock heater hoses and clamps to help make the job go smoothly. Check out our new heater hose pliers that are used to pinch off the coolant hoses and prevent coolant from spilling into the interior while the hoses are disconnected for repairs.

If you’re having a problem with the heater system in your Volvo that you’re unable to figure out how to solve, give us a call. We’ve got the parts and experience to help get the job done right.

Heater Hoses and Clamps

240 series All 4 cyl. 1976-93 water pump pipe to firewall
BAD PART NUMBER

240 series non-turbo All 4 cyl. 1976-93 cylinder head to firewall
BAD PART NUMBER

200 series turbo B21FT 1981-85 cylinder head to firewall
BAD PART NUMBER

All All All heater hose clamp (15-24mm)
BAD PART NUMBER

Locking Hose Clamping Pliers (opens to .675”)

Heater hose clamping pliers
BAD PART NUMBER

Heater Core

240, 260 series 1975-93 limited availability
BAD PART NUMBER

700, 900 series 1983-95
BAD PART NUMBER

Climate Control Vacuum Reservoir Check Valve

200, 700, 900 series 1978-95
BAD PART NUMBER

Heater Control Valves

A. B.

Volvo 240/260 models from 1975 to 1991 had a brass style valve that mounted on the firewall above the gas pedal (LH drive models.) Volvo no longer sells this style valve, but instead sells a kits with a plastic valve. This kit is not a direct replacement and has a fairly complicated installation. ipd has been able to source some of the OEM style brass valves.

A. 240, 260 series 1975-91
BAD PART NUMBER

B. 700, 900 series w/o climate cntrl 1983-95
BAD PART NUMBER

Replacement Radiators


Years of normal operation will create conditions that can gradually reduce the cooling efficiency of a radiator. One example is caused by a build-up of road grime on the front side of the radiator. This is a very common problem on cars equipped with AC and is not visible as the AC condenser obstructs the view. The build-up reduces the surface area of the radiator, gradually reducing cooling effectiveness to the point where it may not be able to properly cool in hot weather. This results in boil over. This problem can usually be resolved by aiming a high-pressure wash from the fan side of the radiator to blast the build-up off of the radiator. This should be done once a year as preventative maintenance. The more common problem is internal clogging.

Standard 2-row Radiators (Plastic tanks and aluminum core)

240, 260 all
BAD PART NUMBER

740, 940 series non-turbo 1992-95
BAD PART NUMBER

740, 940 series turbo 1992-95
BAD PART NUMBER

Radiator Hoses and Clamps

When you are doing anything to the cooling system, be sure to check the condition of the belts, hoses and clamps. Inspect a belt by turning it to see if it shows any signs of cracking or fraying where it rides in the pulley. The telltale squeal will let you know if it is not adjusted correctly. Hoses should be easy to compress with your hand but not too soft, as if the reinforcement inside has broken. A hose that has become rigid is just as bad as a soft one, as it can stress the neck of the radiator from engine movement.

Radiator Hoses and Clamps Upper Hose

240 series B20 1975
BAD PART NUMBER

240 series B21, B23, B230 1976-93*
BAD PART NUMBER

700 series B23FT, B230FT 1984-86
BAD PART NUMBER

700 series B23FT, B230FT 1987-91 (for watercooled turbo models)
BAD PART NUMBER

700, 940 series B230F 1985-91
BAD PART NUMBER

700, 940 series B230F 1992-95
BAD PART NUMBER

940 series B230FT 1992-95
BAD PART NUMBER

All 1975-98 Radiator hose clamp (32-44mm)
BAD PART NUMBER

Radiator Hoses and Clamps Lower Hose

240 series B20 1975
BAD PART NUMBER

240 series B21, B23, B230 1976-93*
BAD PART NUMBER

700 series B23FT, B230FT 1984-86
BAD PART NUMBER

700 series B23FT, B230FT 1987-91 (for watercooled turbo models)
BAD PART NUMBER

700, 940 series B230F 1985-91
BAD PART NUMBER

700, 940 series B230F 1992-95
BAD PART NUMBER

940 series B230FT 1992-95
BAD PART NUMBER

All 1975-98 Radiator hose clamp (32-44mm)
BAD PART NUMBER

*Must be shortened for use on intercooled turbo models

Don’t forget to order new clamps with your hoses! It will make the job much easier and it’s not uncommon for old corroded clamps to “blow up” upon removal.

Sale pricing valid from Monday, December 08, 2008 through Friday, January 23, 2009

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