Volvo 850 » Cooling System Components

This product was relatively east to install with removal/installation help I was able to find on the net. It took 1 hour 45 minutes from start to firing up the engine to topping off the antifreeze. It didn't include the two hours I let the engine run to help dry out the carpet where I spilled some of the coolant. Another 10 minutes to reinstall the carpeting and mats. Also used the recommended new silicon orings with some silicon grease to help them slide into place and not bind. The old orings were not yet brittle even with 140K miles. However, they were somewhat flat on one side and prior experience tells me that there's a good chance the old orings would have leaked after being disturbed. If you don't save the old coolant for reuse, make sure you have a gallon or so of new coolant on hand.

I saved $650 doing it myself. Most difficult part was fitting myself under the dash to get to it. Like the other post said, make sure you have a pan to hold at least a gallon of coolant. It comes out quick. Also, to disconnect the core from the pipes coming through the firewall, there is one screw in the middle of the clamp that makes it easy. I tried removing the clamp and it added about a half hour to the job. Otherwise it took less than 2 hours to complete. Thanks IPD.

If you find this place/part leaking, then open up the thermostat housing and inspect the blardy thermostat. I changed my thermostat EVERY year, and yet the dang thing could fail me in the 8th year. THe total costs was horrendous, as overheating caused a lot of other things to burn/damage as well... In anycase, if you buy the thermostat (any kind), chances are that you'll get this ring seal together. But if your thermostat housing is leaking, then open the housing, you may need a T40 bit for that (or whatever is you've changed into aftermarket bolts), and inspect the seal. If the seal was improperly placed the first time, it may have crushed the walls and you need new seals for that.

Hope that helps.
Cheers, all the way from Malaysia!

I decided to install this part when I did my timing belt assembly. The old thermo was completely shot. I looked like someone hit it with a hammer and then lit it on fire. Now that I know where this part is I can change it in 5min without draining the coolant.

Thanks IPD, Spencer

Great clamps with firm adjustment. No more worm gear recesses digging into the hose. Plus the blue bit looks kinda cool for coolant lines.

Removed the old core and man was it in bad shape. It had leaked all over the floor board. Tip: make sure you have a container or plastic bag to catch the leaking antifreeze. Removing the unit was a breeze. I was advised by a pro technician that this job was not for an amateur (I proved them wrong) I've never worked on cars before, and I was able to change it in 3 hours time. Easy. Give a try. If you get a white smoke when you run your AC in the summer and if it fogs your winshield in the winter. It is probably you heater core is leaking.
This weekend I am tackling my faulty ABS unit.
Ed (Amateur Volvo enthusiast)

This core is an easy direct replacement for the original. It is easy and quick to r&r, about 1 hour TOTAL.

Removal of the old core was easy and didn't require any fancy language or tools- 15, 20 and 25 torx, ONLY. Just remove the glove box, then loosen the two bolts that hold up the triom above the passanger's knees, pull back the carpet on both sides, the black plastic shield on the center console (under the carpet) and then 4 screws + 1 screw on the lines and the core will come out. Be aware, when you pull out the lower coolant lines, you will get about 1 gallon of coolant gushing out! i put a tarp down and scooped out the puddle of coolant for later proper disposal. (If you have the heater last on COLD, ie, not HOT, maybe less coolant will come out?). The core comes out with the plastic mounting bottom with a bit of persuasion.

re-assamble is the same as reverse.

tools- 15, 20, 25 torx
coolansdt
tarp
o-rings (i only used 2, there were only 2 and not sure where the other 2 go.... maybe it will start leaking in a few days??)

good luck
-matt
moscow id 98 V70 awd

the directions are awful! the old original 1998 heater core used 2 oring (one on the IN and one on the OUT), yet, this thing come with 4, plus some hard o-ring yellow things, and then these clips. Huh?? The schematic is 'well' xeroxed, fuzzy and has ZERO directions or instructions or....

i used one o-ring per side after ho-humming for a while and it doesn't appear to leak...

-matt
moscow ID

ipd customer service response: ipd does not currently provide instructions for changing the heater core. There are some basic instructions in the heater core package from the manufacturer. 3545662 is a kit that contains all the o-rings and clips to remove the firewall coupler that the heater hoses connect to. The clips aren't needed for the heater core replacement in many cases.

Just replaced the thermostat and coolant temp sensor on my '98 XC. I recommend doing both at the same time. Get a torx T40 screwdriver style to remove the inside bolt as anything larger will be very hard to get in behind the fuel rail plumbing. This took care of the code # 116. Bad coolant temp sensor. Quality parts from IPD and less expensive than most suppliers.