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Volvo 200 » Fuel Tank Bung Nut Tool
 Accessing the pre pump and fuel gauge sender assembly on 240 and 260 models can be a tough job if you don't have the right tools. The difficulty lies in safely removing the large "bung nut" where all the lines are wiring go into the top of the tank. Believe it or not, that's the official name for that style of nut. It's a large ring with tabs that stick up at 60 degree intervals. The problem with using a drift or punch and a hammer is that the top of the fuel tank is only 4 inches below the floor of the car and the access opening is so small that you can't get much of an angle to properly engage the tabs. This causes the tabs to bend over, making it hard to reinstall. And if you ever need to open it again, it's so mutilated that it's even more difficult, if not impossible, to remove. Our bung nut tool has interlocking tabs that positively engage the bung nut tabs, allowing the bung nut to be removed with a 1/4 turn of the wrench. The right tool makes this job go much smoother and prevents the bung nut from being damaged. No "choice" words, not damage and more important, no sparks from hammering steel on steel; hence no unexpected, loud, violent explosions.
Please note that any time the fuel tank sender assembly is opened, the rubber seal ring should be replaced for safety reasons. Please check fitment listed below to ensure products will fit your specific vehicle. Some products may include or exclude some model years or engine and transmission combinations.
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T5169 Reviewed by John Rogers from Los Angeles
California began evaporative emmissions test in late 2007 as part of their biennial smog checks. I passed everything just fine, except the new test. Checked all my hoses with a mighty vac ( a device for pumping up vacuum to check for leaks), finally found the problem to be the o-ring which seals the fuel sending unit. I had replaced the filter sock and found it impossible to get a good angle with a punch to tighten the lock ring, thus causing a vacuum leak. I bought this tool, tightened the lockring another 1/6 of a turn, NO MORE VACUUM LEAK!. Worth the money to avoid the hastle.
March 2008
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